
When my son first told me that that they were moving out into the Peruvian countryside to live among the poor Quechua families, I wasn’t quite sure what to think. I was able to see everything for myself during my three-week visit in April 2008. Sometimes our imagination is worse than reality. The reality is that the house they live in, though perhaps not entirely up to American building codes, is nice and quite comfortable. It sits on a very large lot and is surrounded on all sides by a tall adobe wall. They have fruit trees, and a separate walled garden/greenhouse. None of the houses in Peru have heat and so everyone learns to layer clothes. They sleep under warm alpaca blankets at night. Fortunately, they have the space to park their vehicle within the adobe walls, which they do at night. Although they don’t have a clothes dryer, they do have a washing machine, under cover, close to the back door. Their home is the only brick house in the whole “neighborhood”.
They are surrounded by poor Quechua neighbors, whom they’ve befriended, living in small Adobe homes…of all shapes and sizes. Most of the homes are owned by a landlord living elsewhere. At night there is the smell of the wood fires, as the families cook on a fogón, a type of earthen wood stove. Some of the families have a few livestock - a cow or two, a hog, a few sheep, some chickens or turkeys. My daughter-in-law buys fresh milk from one farmer and pasteurizes it for their use. The milk is very rich and makes great puddings and other desserts. She also purchased chickens (layers) and now they have fresh eggs each day. They eat very healthy living there in the country, cooking all fresh food.

The photo above is the home of Gladys and her husband Ephraim and their two children, Melina and Ronnie. They live directly behind my son and his family. You’ll notice the rustic wooden door on the left side of the adobe wall. (In the photo, the building with the windows above their house is across the dirt road from them). The family of four live in one room, approximately 12′ x 14′. The small hut next to the adobe wall is their kitchen which has a dirt floor, table, chairs and a fogón. It’s also where they house their guinea pigs and where the children do their homework at times by the single light bulb overhead. There is one large utility type sink just outside the kitchen door and a single commode which they flush with a bucket of water on a concrete platform between the kitchen wall and the adobe wall. They must walk across a muddy path during the rainy season to get from the room where the four of them live to the kitchen. Gladys raises chickens and guinea pigs (Cuy) to feed her family. She also picks apples to sell to make money for her family. The father works long hours away from home during each day.
Melina Jennifer is nine years old. She is very pretty with a beautiful smile. A very bright and artistic child, Melina goes to a public all-girls school in Cusco and travels by public transportation - alone - everyday. She has to transfer buses twice in the midst of the horrendous traffic conditions in Cusco. Only if you’ve experienced the streets and traffic of Cusco, will you’ll understand the magnitude of this truth. She has to cross the streets of Cusco on more than one occasion everyday.
Already Melina helps her mother do laundry, washing their clothes in one bucket of cold water and rinsing in another. She helps cook on the fogón. She takes care of her little brother Ronnie, and she does all of this with one of the sweetest dispositions I have ever seen.
My daughter-in-law had recently cut my granddaughter’s hair, and Melina decided she wanted her long hair (which had not been cut since infancy) cut also. Gladys was very happy that Jeanine would cut Melina’s hair, and so one afternoon we were all gathered in the backyard together watching the transformation. Melina was quite pleased with her new look. I went to the market the following day and bought her barrettes and ribbons for her new hair style. She gave me a big hug and a smile. I was very touched when Jeanine told me that Melina had told her mother that she wanted me to be her new grandmother and that she wanted to go back to the United States with me.
Ronnie is six years old. He is in the first grade in public school. He also takes public transportation to get to school everyday. He is a bright, inquisitive child with a sweet disposition and a ready smile.
One of the first things I noticed when I met Ronnie is that he has Nystagmus. Evidently, he has had it since birth. He has never seen a physician in his life. Jeanine is encouraging Gladys to take Ronnie to the clinic to see my son for a complete assessment about his eyes.
Meeting my beautiful new friend Gladys was one of the highlights of my three weeks in Peru. I speak very little Spanish and Gladys doesn’t speak English. My granddaughters would translate for us until they tired and were ready to go play. One day I had been visiting Gladys and when I returned home, my son said with a grin in amazement, “Mom, how could you stay an hour? You don’t even speak Spanish!” Oh, no problem, I replied. She was showing me her family photos and all her knitting (beautiful). We managed just fine.

I bought apples from Gladys and made three apple pies. I gave one to her family. Usually , the Quechua don’t like a lot of sweets, but apparently they liked the apple pie. My daughter-in-law made bread one day and took a loaf to them which they enjoyed very much. A few days before I left, Gladys gave me a small piece of Quechua pottery with a lid…and two amazing pieces of her border embroidery - one of which said “No me olvide”…don’t forget me. Gladys and her family did something immensely special for me…they gave me a glimpse into the hearts and lives of the Quechua people.
Two days ago, my daughter-in-law emailed me to say that Gladys had given birth to tiny, beautiful twin girls. She said that Gladys had told her that I was the MADRINA…the godmother…of these babies. What an amazing honor. The hard part is that it will be months before I am able to go back to Peru to see these sweet babies for myself. In the meantime, Jeanine is shopping for me (there isn’t a lot available there) and, hopefully, I can help provide a few things they will need. One good thing about creating reborn dolls is that I have drawers full of new baby clothing, so I will be packing some of those to ship to Peru!
So now, I am a Mother, a Grandmother…and a Madrina!

Filed under: Travel, Reflections on June 17th, 2009 | 7 Comments »